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Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Number Chaser

I like numbers, and even though the V-scale for bouldering suffers slightly due to minor subjectivity, if a boulder problem's grade has reached a consensus among a group of experienced climbers, all that is left for one to do is speculate. That being said, I chase the numbers because I use them, as most I am sure, to mark personal progression.
There are a few boulder problems in particular that make it on my lifetime tick list.

1. Power of Silence V10 Hueco Tanks El Paso, TX


It is short, sweet, and powerful. When I tried this problem March 2009 I got shut down. Here is a video with the conventional beta


2. Free Willy V10/11 Hueco Tanks El Paso, TX


I worked Free Willy for three days and found the dyno very challenging: you have to bear down on a small, sharp crimp and I could not generate much power on the hold. Hopefully I will have another opportunity in the near future. There is footage of Chris Sharma flashing this problem in Best of the West.

3. Evilution to the Lip V10 Buttermilks Bishop, CA

I am leaving for Bishop this Friday and can't wait to try this!



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